Cosmetic Preservatives: Trend, Efficacy, and Safety

A preservative or cosmetic preservative is a chemical substance (of natural or synthetic origin) used to prevent the growth and proliferation of microorganisms such as bacteria, yeasts, and fungi, which can alter the color, consistency, or odor of formulas, and in the worst case represent a risk to the health of users.

In this article, we will discuss the main aspects related to the use of preservatives in cosmetics:

• Demystifying the use of the “Preservative-Free” label.

Many times, we see labels as “preservative-free,” generating a perception in the consumer that preservatives are harmful chemicals for our skin, and the truth is that they have a significant function for our cosmetics to be microbiologically protected, prolong the shelf life of the product, guarantee safety and maintain efficacy.

The claim that cosmetic products are “preservative-free” means that they do not contain any ingredients identified in Annex V of the European Union Regulation 1223:2009; this includes a list of ingredients classified as preservatives, with permitted application in cosmetics and specifies the maximum concentration and in which products they can be used (with and without rinsing, for example).

https://www.boe.es/doue/2009/342/L00059-00209.pdf

• Quality and Safety Assessment, Preservative Testing, and Microbiological Stability

Rigorous evaluations and quality controls must be carried out to ensure safety. We look for efficacy at low concentrations to reduce the risk of producing an allergic reaction. In addition, the concentrations must be approved by the regulatory authorities, thus complying with the demands and the requirements of microbiological stability.

Contamination can appear in the manufacturing process, but mainly when the product is in the hands of the end user.

This symbol indicates the product’s shelf life in optimal conditions once opened, expressed in months.

Fluid or cream products are the most susceptible to alterations. If we add poor storage conditions such as inadequate light, humidity, and temperature, the time could be reduced. On the other hand, powdered products could increase their shelf life by considering if you always use a clean brush and do not touch the product with your fingers.

• Microbial protection and maintenance of skin microbiome balance

Some microorganisms in our skin are essential for a healthy skin microbiome. The preservative must be able to stop the growth of pathogens without damaging our equilibrium, which, when disturbed, can lead to skin lesions.

It is essential to apply products to the skin that affect the integrity of the microbiome as little as possible, evaluate parameters of vitality and diversity of the skin microbiome, and protect the skin.

• Multifunctional products that respond to the current trend

The demand for cosmetic products with natural ingredients is increasing. With this, the search for softer, less synthetic preservatives is challenging. An initial stage of this challenge has been to change parabens for molecules that are less questioned or gentler towards our skin.

There is an increasing demand for water-free products, the so-called solid cosmetics, under a concept of sustainability, to use powder preservatives suitable for a formula to be restored at the place of final consumption.

Less is more. Reduce the number of cosmetic products used in a routine and opt for minimalism. Ingredients are chosen in a more meticulous and studied way. Multifunctional products add value: they not only preserve but also care for the skin, and regulate the pH; in terms of formulation, they facilitate the incorporation of a lipophilic ingredient or one that stabilizes the emulsion; they work as a chelator, reducing water hardness and protecting the emulsion against oxidation.

“Preservatives are not the enemy of our formulation”

Get advice from our experts

At Mathiesen, we advise you to find the best preservative solution according to the requirements of your formulations. We work with a complete portfolio of preservatives for cosmetics, of natural and synthetic origin, suitable for different types of formulations, and transparent systems, with surfactants, creams, lotions, sunscreens, and even powders. We can select the ideal alternative for your development. Contact our team of experts.